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Australian Wine Vintages

Tasting and Travelling | Drinking and Dining | Collecting and Cellaring

June 2011

I have again been reminded of the talent of the next generation of winemakers while judging at the Kenvale College Winefest 2011 with the best wines this year displaying a great deal of passion & innovation.

There was plenty of Hawkes Bay love to share this month with the standouts appearing in our hot picks. Speaking of standouts, June is the Clarendon Hills tasting at the American Club- hope to see you there.

Cheers, Rob

Rob Geddes


Two Regions


Hawkes Bay 2009 Vintage | Full of fruit & spice

hawkes bay

The Hawkes Bay region is causing a stir in wine circles, especially their Syrah (Shiraz to you and I). Andrew Caillard MW of Langtons fame was given the job of selecting the top 12 red wines from the region’s wonderful 2009 vintage. He chose wines, showing freshness, vinosity (wine flavours not fruit gum like), energy (the vitality of the flavours in the mouth) and momentum meaning length. The resultant 4 syrah and 8 cabernet blends are distinctively different to Australia and worth considering by anyone excited by wine’s diversity.

The Syrahs possessed a pronounced spiciness that is most distinctive. As Rod Easthope, Craggy Range winemaker said, "Syrah here does the thinking for you with distinctive black spice and raspberry or blackberry fruit in a medium weight palate that is intense but not heavy and has freshness with mouthwatering acidity without it being prominent." My favourites were those with the longest flavours: Craggy Range Syrah ($35.00) with its deep set almost juicy flavours and Trinity Hill Homage Syrah’s resinous spice aromas and plump berry fruit ($135.00).

It’s a truism that Cabernet has a berry and herbs character in most regions and the type of berry and herbs varies according to climate from the blackcurrant menthol of Tasmania to blackcurrant eucalypt in Victoria & mint in Coonawarra to a richer purer blackcurrant and leaf of Margaret River. These Cabernet blends were more challenging for me to find an accurate group of descriptors, many possess a character akin to red fruit with a background of cooked celery in a fine cut basic mirepoix of onion, carrot and celery. Perhaps it’s me, but these wines have a more meat stock than the briar of the same blend in Bordeaux.

The palates are compact and long and svelte often with excellent structure but not the sweet fruit of Australia. My top wines were the merlot dominant Montage Wines 'Alluviale', with rich brick dusty middle palate, Te Awa Cabernet Merlot (very pretty and great tannins) a snip at under $30.00 retail and the Trinity Hill The Gimblett also under $40 with its exotic red and black fruit flavours. For wine of this quality and style these prices are ideal to encourage wider exploration, if you love diversity in wine try them.

Well done Andrew I look forward to next years tasting.

Top Picks

Great wines to look out for from New Zealand's Hawkes Bay 2009 vintage: 

2009 Montage Wines 'Alluviale'

2009 Craggy Range Syrah

2009 Trinity Hill Homage Syrah

2009 Te Awa Cabernet Merlot

2009 Trinity Hill The Gimblett

 

king valley



Is this the end of an era?

Liqueur Verdelho is one of those Hunter delicacies that is potentially facing extinction. These wines have been touched by some of the Hunter’s greatest winemakers. I recently heard that Drayton’s will no longer be making their Liqueur Veldelho and now there is some uncertainty facing the McWilliams Mt Pleasant Aged Liqueur Verdelho.

Scott McWilliam is in a tricky situation. This wine was first created by Maurice O’Shea & the reserve wine used in each blend is the last of wines made by this iconic winemaker (dating back to 1938)- the last physical continuation of his pedigree. However this wine, one that was often given as a gift at O’Shea dinners, is currently sitting in the solera, unbottled because it is considered a slow moving seller. The last bottle of the latest batch was sold recently & while there is wine there to bottle more, no there are no plans to do so in the future.

We can all do our part in making sure that these wines are kept alive as part of the Hunter’s heritage by asking for them at the cellar door or by making sure that you always have a bottle on hand for those after dinner chats. With enough interest, wineries will continue to release these wines & continue to keep the legend alive.

 

Getting around....

tokoI share the opinion of many in the wine industry that Australian drinkers are amongst the worlds most sophisticated so as autumn bites and minds turn inward to slow cooking, braising and richer flavours I have found my self in several interesting situations with friends involving wine and food.

Having met Al Yazbek and Rebecca, I was invited to Toko, in Crown street Sydney for dinner.

The style of the interior is amazing with its sensuous curves and mood lighting it creates a clubby hip atmosphere. Here is a masterful wine list, diverse, thorough and affordable and brings the wine world to your table while remaining aligned to the menu. It is a quality wine list in any city in the world.

'as autumn bites and minds turn inward to slow cooking, braising and richer flavours ...'

If you like wine and have a basic grasp of international regional styles this is an exciting place not only for the Japanese flavours and style to the food but the comprehensive wine list ranges far and wide without lapsing into obscurity.

_____________________________

Delivering wine to one of my old local restaurants in North Sydney I was surprised to see it had changed hands, not worrying too much I briefed the staff about the wines for the following nights dinner.

The staff cheerfully advised all will be well and I thought it was. When we arrived our Witches Falls Fiano was chilled to perfection. This southern Italian variety is getting traction for its acidity and distinctive “sweet lime and yellow pastille” fruit flavours. The arrival of the reds was a different story then a shock and finally a sick joke. The staff had chosen an extra large decanter and managed to fit two bottles, one burgundy shaped and the other claret shaped into it, fine except one was a 2006 Grey Sands Pinot and the other Grey Sands 2008 Merlot. A credit to the Pinot really as it dominated the aromas and the initial palate.

The place shall remain nameless but when a favourite watering hole changes hands any thing can happen and in this case did.  Let's just say, next time I go there I will stick to beer.... 


Australian Wine Vintages now on facebook

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We are practising what we tweet (see April AWV) and have finally set up the Australian Wine Vintages facebook page. 

Please drop by and say hello, next time you are on facebook.


What's On - Courses

Sydney Wine

Sydney Wine Centre

Masterclasses:

15th June - SIFF Discover Italy Tasting

It's not too late to book in for the start of the next 4 week course starting at 7pm each Wednesday from 10th August 2011.  The cost is $250 including a copy of A Good Nose and Great Legs (worth $50).   

To enquire about any of these courses visit sydneywinecentre.com.au or call 02) 9572 3500.

American Club

The American Club

Rob is running a series of masterclasses at the newly refurbished club in Sydney. These classes will be open to both members and non-members.

  • Thursday, 16th June 'A rare look at Clarendon Hills '

For more details or to book any classes please contact The American Club on theamericanclub.com.au or call 02) 9241 2015.


Christmas


Regional Tastings & Events

Hunter

Hunter Valley Food & Wine Month

3rd -  21st June 2011 | June is the perfect month for wine and food lovers to visit the Hunter Valley.

Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month runs throughout the Hunter Valley with a chance to sample the Hunter Valley lifestyle, with a showcase of world renowned Hunter Valley wine, produce and quality restaurants.

Hunter

Yarra Valley

Yarra Valley Shortest Lunch

18-19th June 2011 | The Yarra Valley’s smaller winemakers invite you all to join them for the 2011 Shortest Lunch.

A moving feast of entrée size meals, it’s the perfect way to meander around the Valley’s boutique wineries and savour great food, wine and music, without the hustle and bustle.


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