Are we embarking on a wine oddity?

This is a story about what is really relevant in wine and that as far as overseas is concerned Australia is only ever going to be known for Shiraz and chardonnay. No brainer really as we do these well and have large volumes of high quality diverse vineyards that will overcome the tyranny of distance but it is still a painful lesson to someone who loves the diversity of Australian wine. It seems that only a small educated market will learn of our great Semillons, Rieslings, Cabernets and Muscats but familiarity will be slight and confined to the higher levels of wine scholarship.
It points out that the globalisation of wine sales is never going to create a richly diverse consumer offering reflecting local diversity rather overseas sales will reflect our strengths in wine volume production.
Recently I was asked to host a tasting for a group of scholarship winning Wine and Spirit Education trust students on Australia’s alternate varieties. The group were from our major markets in the Northern hemisphere and as top students represented an up to date, informed view of Australian wine, they were articulate and extremely experienced in their markets and having done a fair bit of “heavy lifting” with tastings across Australia were up to date on our wines.
My tasting covered a lot of what I think is new and exciting Vermentino, Savagnin, pale dry rose, Tempranillo and Gracianno. Stories of innovation, entrepreneurship and experimentation, common sense and idealism.
To offer such a tasting to me is an indication of Australia’s proudly open minded approach to new varieties for changing climates and meeting the challenges of our times with more internationally literate consumers. It also reflects our deepening understanding of global viticultural assets and search for sustainable water use in grape growing in hot areas and the overall effect of recent climate changes.
Our guests gave me a huge shock when the tone (very politely) started to question the relevance of these wines and pointedly remarked that they would muddy Australia’s wine reputation.
As Ken Behan one of the guests commented “ There is nothing wrong with Ozzie Vermintino etc, if you can find it a proper "home" in the same manner Semillon = Hunter or Barossa, Cabernet = Coonawarra, Pinot = Yarra, Mornington or Tassie.” He asks where is the sense of home for Vermintino? “if its the Riverina that's great, but he suggest that winemakers must impart whatever they decide to grow with a sense of uniqueness rather than try to be adventourous just for adventures sake as winemakers are competing with worldwide producers for shelf space, not just with other ozzie wines.” Makes you think.
To a high end American sommelier, they could be of interest but in most markets Shiraz will be our shining star. In the high streets of Europe an Australian Tempranillo would be a source of confusion more than wonderment. It seems to me from this experience that both our best wines and our more interesting examples of new varietals will stay in the local market especially while our currency stays higher.
The refinement of our production of the new tougher varieties more suited to our diverse climates is going to need local consumers to come along for the ride and appreciate increasingly there are many layers to Australian wine: mainstream and alternate varietals, fine and everyday wine so raise a glass to the entrepreneurs and experiments.
Tempranillo or Vermentino anyone?
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Top Picks
These wines are finding their rightful sense of place ....
2007 Mt Majura Tempranillo, Canberra District, ACT
2010 Running with Bulls, Vermentino SA (predominately Riverland)
2001 Chateau Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes, VIC
2008 Quealy Tocai Frulano, Mornington Peninsula, VIC
2005 Freeman Secco Rondinella/Corvina, Hilltops, NSW
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